Name: Sylvain Millet
Date of birth: 16/04/1978 (Gap)
Living in: Gap (France)
Weight: approximatly 63 kg
Began Climbing: for the first time in 87, I started to climb regularly in 92
Job: I'm mechanic engineer and this year I sit an exam to be professor
Best Onsight (sport climbing): "°Praniania°" 8b, in St Leger du Ventoux
Hardest Redpoint: "Biographie", 9a+, Ceüse (Fra)
Best flash (bouldering): -
Hardest boulder: -
Favorite climbing style: I like all styles. I prefer very long routes, slightly overhanging
Favourite sport climbing crag: Ceüse (Fra)
Favourite bouldering spot: -
Favourite Route: all Céüse's routes!
Competition Results: 3rd at the Edinburgh World cup in 2003, 6th at the World Championship in 2003, 8th at the World cup ranking 2003, 5th at the European Championship in 2000 and youth world champion in 1995 (have a look here)
Music: Thiefaine, Bashung, Arnaud, Paolo Conte, Salif Keita, The Doors, Zappa, Bob Marley, The Velvet, John Lee Hooker, Popa Chubby, David Lafore, Léo Ferré, Loïc Lantoine, Janis Joplin, Gerald Genty …………
Favourite drink: beer and French wine!
Alimentation-Favourite meal: mum's dishes!
Hobby: mountain bike, free ride, cinema, jogging …
Climbing Club: ASPTT GapSylvain's performances are powered by
"...Some 9c will be realized soon!"
by Daniel Vecchiato - FreakClimbing.com, 4 June 2004©Freakclimbing.com 2004 - All Rights Reserved
This time super Freak-Sylvain did it!! After 3 years since the first ascent of "Biographie" (commonly known as "Realization") has been repeated!
Let's see what he told us!!
>> VIDEO <<
>> PHOTOGALLERY <<
Well Sylvain, where do we start? From some beer to celebrate?
Ok, but let's start with a little be of history!
It’s Jean-Christophe Lafaille who bolted the route in 89-90, only one pitch of approximately 35m and he named it Biographie.In 95 Arnaud Petit starts to work the route, as it seems too hard for him to link it, he puts an intermediate belay stance at approximately 18-20m, it will link to this belay stance the next year. Chris Sharma repeated this first part in 97, and I did the same in 99. Chris links to top in 2001 after having worked it in 97 and 2000. He named it "Realization".For me the route is called "Biographie", the first part is just a half-route that doesn’t have a real existence (there is no enormous rest position, no overhang break, or another reason to justify the stop of a route at the intermediate belay stance)."
Well, so we will refer to "The Route" as "Biographie"!
Tell us a little bit about You, do You do something else in life or are You a “professional”?
I’m a student. Until last year, I was in an engineer school in Lyon, while this year I'm in in Gap taking correspondence courses to prepare an exam to become professor.
Why did it take so long to repeat Biographie? What Special?
Because there are boulder sections, resistance sections, rest positions are not so good and therefore you need a lot of stamina, it’s technical, there are a lot of different methods and you must find the one which is the best for you. Furthermore... it’s a "very" little bit hard.
In fact “Biographie” isn’t the only 9a+ around the world. What makes it so special then? Apparently it isn’t just the grade, the “number”
I think it’s because of the purity of the line, the beauty of the route, in a splendid cliff. And also because it has waited more than 10 years for a first ascent!
Love or hate for “Biographie”?
Love! For life!
Any special celebration after getting “Biographie”
Did You do any special training to get it, or did You just climb on rock?
I climbed a lot on rock, sometimes on climbing walls (maybe 1-2 times a week on average) and I did some training weekends with the French team.
Try to immagine that in your sponsorship contracts the prize for solving “Biographie” was a night with a famous top model: who is the lucky girl?
What a macho question!! Some 9c will be realized soon... is Monica Bellucci free??**
What would have been more important for You: to do “Biographie” or to win the last leg of World Cup in Imst?
Difficult question…..but I think I prefer to have done "Biog".
Do You also do some bouldering? What do You think about bouldering?
Not so much, maybe twice in a year. It’s too scary.
Do You normally climb in France or do You also like road-trips abroad?
I climb essentially in France, and essentially in Céüse, but why not going somewhere else…
Where would You like to go for a road trip?
Australia, South Africa....
Which is the best way to live climbing?
Like you want …
Plans and projects for the future?
I don’t know …. Climbing why not ??
** is Monica Bellucci free??