Name: Adam Pustelnik
Date of birth: 01/05/1982
Living in: Lodz (Poland)
Weight: 54 - 57 kg
Job/Studies: university student (sociology)
Began Climbing: long time ago
Best Onsight (sport climbing): Le Spectre d’Ottokar 8b (Gorges du Tarn, France)
Best Flash (sport climbing): probably "Dolce Vita" 8a+ (Ceüse)
8c+ Shangri-La (Frankenjura)
8c+ Bah Bah Black Sheep (Ceüse)
8c+ Infinity (Frankenjura)
Best flash (bouldering): I don't know
Hardest boulder: 8a+ at Sustenpass
Favorite climbing style: I don't have one...
Favourite sport climbing crag: Frankenjura, Ceüse and Switzerland for outdoor climbing, but I like the climbing gym in Lodz as well
Favourite bouldering spot: Magic Wood, for the moment!
Favourite Route: impossible to choose but I’ll remember Shangri and Bah Bah for long time!
Competition Results: too long ago to remember them
Music: almost every kind, lately Dub, Raggae, and almost all Electronic type
Favourite drink: vine or cider!
Alimentation-Favourite meal: too much to choose from
Adam's performances are powered by:
De Trip (30Mb)
Adam Pustelnik's freak summer
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and ... the wonder toothbrusher!
by Daniel Vecchiato - ©FreakClimbing.com, November 2003
©Freakclimbing.com 2004 - All Rights Reserved
You wonder how strong You could be brushing your tooth every day properly? When I met Adam in Warsaw in 2000 he was still experiencing this training approach, I tried to convince me but I couldn't find the same toothpaste in Italy so it didn't work! Discover Adam's tooth-training secrets in FreakClimbing.com interview!
Hey Adam, you are doing a lot of hard test-pieces in last times around Europe, undertaking long road trips. I know you have a strange way to travel around! Isn’t it?
I'm not quite sure if it is that strange. I guess that there are a lot of people who do the same. Since you don’t like spending much money on camps or just prefer to live in the wild, it seems for me a normal solution to go around by car or hitchhike and sleep under the rocks. I got used to it, I like it much and, for the moment, I think that this is the best way of living while climbing!
Polish embassy in Gorges du Tarn!
How do You manage to perform so well coming from a country, Poland, pretty unlucky about nice crags, apart Tatry Mountains? How do You get ready during the year?
There isn't anything special in it. Since there aren't any really good crags in Poland, where you might go for the weekend, I spend most of my climbing time training in the city. Twice per week at home, doing campusboarding, and three times per week on the gym, doing interval and SACC training. This’s the training schedule for most of the autumn, winter and part of the spring. But it’s just training and, during this period, I go climbing from time to time as well. But it's not in Poland. I don't climb almost at all in my country. Therefore, if I go climbing, I go abroad and I leave for at least two weeks. I don’t have much speared time, even though I’m a student, so me and my friends go somewhere abroad maybe twice or three times in the autum – spring season (for example, we’ve been to Grotti (Italy) and Gorges du Tarn (France) last year).
How did Your climbing evolved and what did sign Your final evolution toward the 8c+ club?
I’m just climbing.The more and the harder, the more fun it gives me. So every year, I just try to improve my skills to have bigger adventures and live new experiences. I think that, for me, the motivation to go on and try new things comes also from the fact that each route teaches me a lot about climbing and myself. I find this process of "learning while climbing" really stimulating.
I know that You are in France this year for studying…but I’m sure You also have other targets! Things will change with much more rock around?
Hope so. I'm keen on climbing much lately. This years holiday taught me new things about climbing and it does still keep me motivated to go outside and climb. I would like to get use out of this trip, to meet new people and see new crags. I think that there is a lot to learn when you are in a different country and have the chance to stay there enough to see how climbing is lived and how people approach it. It's just a different culture and I would like to understand it as well as possible.
Well, Bah-Bah Black Sheep (8c+, Ceüse) has been a wonderful performance! Tell us more about this route! Didn’t You have some extra adventure?
Come on, I think it was more of an odysey or long journey, than just a simple adventure. I think that Bah Bah taught me more about climbing than any other route I’ve done this year. I spent on it almost two weeks, but it was worth it! I passed from addiction and admiration to hate and disappointment. I think that felt almost every feeling I know trying this route!
As for some theory. The route is about 25 meters long but the hard section is in the first 10-15 meters. The first three clips lead throught two tufas up to a not very comfortable rest in a big hole. I found this first section preatty tireying, because, like for the rest of the route, footholds are rather shit. After the rest, You enter the crux section: a small travarse on two underclins and some really tricky and precise footwork. It ends up with a dyno to a jug which was the hardest and the most bizarre move of the route. After that, there’s just one more tricky dyno - not so easy altough - and an easy section to the chain.
It took me about a week to work out the crux move. I found It very strange 'cause the only things you can work on are balance and body tension: two footholds, two handholds – it hasn't been possible for me to figure out a different sequence. Even when I understood how to do the move, it still took me another week to link all the route. Finally, I had three days, just three days, and they have been like one big battle for me. I was getting up to the crux at every try. Instead of the normal two tries per day – wich were enough to tire me completly– I was doing six of them. I was motivated as never before. I managed to do the crux falling after it for two days in a row. When you’ve done all the hard section and you fall just above sliping of footholds, it is really hard to find energy and motivation to carry on trying. But, again, after two more tries the fun came back. After a while I felt like playing with the route again. For me it was just amazing.
All in all, walking under the route every day with the motivation to do it was probably the best and most important experience for me.
You nearly did all hard stuff in Frankenjura, what next?
As for Germany probably will open up a holiday agency with Szafa (my polish trip-friend), organising tours around Bayen throught all the best Kerva fests. There isn't any better way to know the people there then by partying with them.
As for climbing in Frankenjura there’s still loads to do. I like the place very much so I'm rather sure that I will carry on visiting it. It's reasonably close to Poland and the clymbing style suits me. Besides that, there are many new hard routes every time I go there. I think that this place has still a lot to offer and I guess I will always have something nice to do there.
This year I have been for the first time in Switzerlad for climbing and it really amased me. The country is very beautiful: there are rocks everywhere and it's not crowded. I'm sure I'll go back there next year. As for the rest (read Action Direct, 9a), time will tell...
What about competitions?
If You mean difficulty comp, it's long time I don't do them. On one hand didn't have the mind to get psyched for it and to stay relaxed. The waiting in the isolation zone was always hard for me. On the other I didn’t like the idea that you have only one try. It was all just too different from rocks. If you mix something up there’s no way to turne back. Besides that the thing that I like in climbing is the fact that you can't really compare one climber or route with another. They are all different and should be treated as a chalang just because of the beauty of the route. On comps, you compete with other climbers and it is all about winning.
Anyway, I like to have some fun on some local bouldering comp sometime. There usually is no pressure and everyone’s playing on the problems. That’s nice and I enjoy it!
Which is Your favourite climbing style?
I don't have a specific one. As long as it is climbing, I like it. This year I was more into red pointing but that does not mean that I don't like on sighting. If I wouldn't had been to a crag where havent been earlier would probably go on trying each route on possible. Besides that, I like to do every route I try at the first go. When I'm leaving the ground I never think about saying "take!". I’d rather keep my mind focused on going as high as possible.
You had a freakiest look last year, why did You decide to do dreads and why did You cut them?
I’ve decided to do dreads since I was a child and I thought that Zack de la Rocha from Rage against the Machine has really cool dreads. It did stay in my mind for a long time but it did take time to have my hair long enough.
When I finally did them it tourned out I’d got some problems with the skin on the head and had to cut them. I miss them a bit but as long as Zack is playing I’ll have the memory of them in my mind
How did You start climbing? Looking on the map Your city doesn’t seem to be close to the mountains! Isn’t it that You are a prove of a “Darwinian” evolution?
When I was very little my father, who is doing hymalayan expeditions at present, used to take me and my brother to the Polish rocks. Thats how I’ve got "initiated" to climbing. In ’93 my local climbing club built a wall in my city and I started going there. Then came the first competition for juniors in Poland and for the first 2-3 years I didn't take part only in a couple of them. I started going out to the rocks with my brother, spending all my holidays climbing. And so on...
I guess that if it wouldn't have been for my father and his early "initiation", this adventure would never have started. I think that Lodz bad location for climbing is not detrimental for beginners, since there is a good gym on wich you can train during winter, and there are motivated people who want to go climbing outside.
Which do You consider Your best performance? What characterised it?
I don't know if I can point out exactly one route or one try. For me the best thing in climbing is the challange that the rock gives you. If I have to use all my technical background and all my strength to do a route and go just like the nature made it, it gives me a lot of joy and I do like it as hell. That's why my best memories are about the routes I had the biggest fights on.
My best performance, this year,have definitly been Bah Bah Black Sheepand Shangri-la: they made me feel happy as never before. The routes were just brilliant, completely natural and put a lot of myself in trying them. After doing them I felt like being somewhere else. I just couldn't stop enjoying those moments.
You are getting always more “popular”, You also had an article on Grimpeaur. What do You think about this increasing attention? Does it disturb you?
Not quite sure if there is increassing attention, but for sure it does not disturb me. I climb and I try to enjoy climbing as much as possible. If I do write something I do it because I want to share with other people the emotions, experiences, things that I’ve seen and felt. If other people write something about me, as long as it is true, I don't mind and I do treat it as something positive, since it helps to find sponsors.
What do You like the most about Poland compared with a western country?
A hard question! I don’t think that I can point out just one thing. Each country is different and it would take long to talk about similarities and differences.
What about realization?
A nice and very hard route I guess, but a long way for me before tying it. Besides that, I would have to do Biographie first!
Do You only sport-climb, or do You also do bouldering and mountaineering?
I mostly sport-climb but I don’t want to limit myself just to one aspect of climbing. Two years ago, for example, apart from staying for a month in Frankenjura, I went for two months in the Dolomites to do multipitch routes, and to Bleau to do some bouldering. I have been to Switzerland to Magic Woods and Sustenpass for bouldering this year and I did enjoy it a lot so that I decided to come back there next year. I guess that for the moment bouldering and sport climbing motivate me the most. I think that the time for mountaineering will come soon, 'cause undertaking different projects can give me lot of new energy and ideas!
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