Date of birth: 28/02/1978
Prags Valley - Dolomiti (Italy)
15/17 years ago
Job: cowboy, I have a small farm in the
I also work part-time in the office of some mountain guides..
Best Onsight (sport climbing):
Best Flash (sport
8b, … the hoverhang at Gais - a Brunico - I think it is
8b. It is a bouldery route.
flash (bouldering): -
I think "Mensch ärgere dich nicht", (at
It is a 4 moves boulder problem + topout. It's really hard, you start
with a dyno, and then you need to get to some micro-crimps to do
another dyno to the edge. I think that it can be a hard 8B.
I discovered this boulder 5 yers ago. I accidentaly broke a hold
and thought as a result that it was impossible.
I came back every year in order to try it again, and every time I had
the same thought: it was impossible!
After a while a friend checked it again and told me that in his opinion
it was possible. The game started again!
I worked it hard for 3 months... and then I got it!
climbing style: I like to
work very hard projects, and gradually discover how to climb them. I
prefer slightly hoverhanging problems.
What matters is the line of the problem: it's fundamental that I "get
in love with it" and feel the push to climb it. When I don't have
this feeling, I can't explore new projects! For this reason I don't like
to train indoors and I don't take part in competitions.
Favourite sport climbing crag:
Favourite bouldering spot:
a long list!
Favourite Route: -
Favourite Boulder Problem:
several, I like it when it isn't just a question of power. It needs to be
a combination of elegance, technique, power and speed!
rock and traditional ( I started to play the accordion… holladieitiii)
good water, good wine and beer when I'm thirsty!
I eat a lot and a bit of everything.
sleeping, eating, drinking, my woman and bouldering
Martin's performances are powered by:
"You know that
when you work a hard project it's... hard!!" cowboy's word!
Daniel Vecchiato - ©FreakClimbing.com, 28
2005 - All Rights Reserved
>> VIDEO <<
you wanna watch the video you need to
|Ciao Martin, well let's start to get to know you a bit better! Your name is not new to the bouldering scene, but still we don't know a lot about you! Is it 'cause you don't do any
I'm not a person who's keen for comps. I even start getting stressed if there are just 5 people watching me...
Tell us about you! What do you have for breakfast, what kind of music do you like, do you prefer the blonds, dark hair, the red... well what the hell do you do in South Tyrol (Alto Adige)?
Well, I'm a cowboy and I work in a cottage in the Braies valley. I have some cows and I make hay for them.
I also make my own speck, sausages and cheese. I do everything myself, I even bake the bread!
I also work for Globo Alpin, a mountain guide association, where I manage ski weeks and summer treks.
In my free time I do some solo routes or with the rope in the Dolomites.
Anyway, I usually go bouldering on "my boulders", where I try some new project!
My perfect day ends dancing with a beer!
Martin Moser - L´ultimo Mohikaner, 8A - Braies (Italy)
But, what's the secret of your strength... Marina, the speck, the beer of
the barman I saw on your
It's a mix of all these things… I have some good strength, you know my work builds me in the right way!
I climb hard in order to get good finger and arm strength, but most of all 'cause I have a hard head! When I try something, it can last months or years, I don't give up! I like to analyse every aspect of a single move, how to place my finger, how to lock etc.
I saw some of you pictures, quite expressive:have you ever thought of becoming a cabaret man?
You know that when you work a hard project it's... hard! If you do the clown a bit, it helps you, otherwhise it get's too serious, and I don't like it. Fun first of all, otherwise it's better for you to go home or for a jog…
How did your passion for bouldering start? Did you start in Lagundo (Merano)?
No… Lagundo was still unknown when we started bouldering in Aufhofen, next toBrunico!
We started discovering the boulders there, and then we started doing "bloc bloc", instead of training for routes. I still like Aufhofen a lot!
Me and a small group of friends started bouldering before the bouldering boom. We did it without saying anything about it; 'cause we liked it, not 'cause it was trendy! When people saw us, they smiled and thought we were a bit crazy!
To climb well on boulders it's very different than climbing well on routes.
Tell me a secret, are the Tyrolean trousers that you used on "power of goodbye" comfortable? What about your hat? …not even
Dulac, well known hat lover, has one like yours!
The throusers are called "knickerpocker" and are original South Tyrol traditional throusers… The hat is from my youth, when I did trekking on all the paths in my area.
Power of good bye
here) is a very beautiful boulder problem by di Klem Loskot. It was my first ascent of a hard problem.
I think that I opened and climbed several harder boulders in Pusteria:
Born to be wild, Patatoe head and
Mensch ärgere dich nicht are more difficult for sure…, even
Pluto direct - a boulder close to power of goodbye - is really hard.
Moser - The Power of good bye - Maltatal
What can you tell us about Maltatal? It seems that it has been an important spot for improving your bouldering skills!
Well, in Maltatal I did my first hard ascents, repeating some boulders. I like to do first ascents and free new projects, but in order to understand my level I needed to repeat other people's boulders.
With regard to Power of good bye I have to say that it is a "first dancer"!!! It is still possible to find several hard projects and boulders in Maltatal, a great place!
And now… Dreamtime! How did you have the idea to try it? Were you considering trying it for a long time?
Marina and I took a couple of days of holidays after a long winter of work. In the last period I climbed a lot of easy stuff, and then I didn't want to do "volume" in Cresciano. Then I started thinking to try
Dreamtime, but without thinking that I had to climb it.
We just wanted to have a couple of relaxed days without stress!
How was it, succeeding on such a famous boulder after working it for just one day? Would you had belived it? What did you do when you topped out so quickly? Did it seem a ... "Dream"?
I did Dreamtime after working it for one day. It is an endurance problem, not a movement problem. Dreamtime, although it has probably been chipped, is still a wonderful problem, with fantastic moves. Nevertheless, the mystique around this problem is part of history.
…the grade? It seems that you found it easier than
expected, you said 8A+/8B…
In my opinion it isn't harder than 8A+/8B. I did it with perfect friction, and in the end I really wanted to do
it... when I understood that it was possible. I think that grades are always personally relative and
that, with regard to Dreamtime, it may feel easier for tall climbers.
I repeated it for its amazing line, not for the grade.
Several climbers climb for the grade, and focus stronly on the grade. These people
don't yet understand the essence of climbing.
Grades should be a suggestion in order to know more or less what a problem is
like, nothing else. As I already said, the grade, in the end, is always personal.
Did you find Dreamtime effectively chipped?
I didn't try it before the issue of chipping. I can say that now you can hold the holds
well. It is possible to notice on the pictures of the ascent of Bernd Zangerl
his video on Dreamtime here - If you wanna watch the video you need to
login) that he was struggling in crimping with all
fingers, while now, even if I have big fingers, I could use all of them!
What section of Dreamtime is the most difficult in your opinion?
I was falling on the section after the dyno: I was lacking endurance and my body was
flagging. I then found a new solution, different from those of other
climbers: while I had my left hand on the underclin, I went with the right hand straight up to the second last sloper on the top
edge. I then moved the left hand to the crimp and the right to the last
sloper. In this way I did less moves, increasing the speed of the action.
Moser or... Hulk?!?
how did you celebrate this super performace?!?
I celebrated…., but
I have to say that I was very tired as well!
Tell us another
secret: what are you gonna try now?
have a project at Aufhofen. I couple of days ago I understood that the
sit start is now harder, and that, maybe, I won't even be able to do
it. It is this uncertainty of success, this finding the limit that I
like. When a problem has already be climbed, at least you know that it
I have 2, 3 - maybe 10 or 20 projects….
What is the bouldering style that you prefer?
All my hard boulders are very dynamic. If you stop while climbing, you
fall! I also like difficult and articulated dynos.
I like articulated moves, when you need to do/control several things at once!
How is the social climbing environment where you live?
Well, we have been a good bunch of climbers from the beginning! I like
this, we always go to climb together! I also go around climbing by myself or with my girlfriend, she is my
"coach": thanks a lot Marina!
do you like the most about bouldering?
like it when you climb, and the time stops, you don't think
about anything, and you fly, when you don't feel the
difficulty and the moves come easily, when you are just one
thing with the rock. It is a fantastic feeling.
Another thing a like about bouldering is that I can boulder
whenever I like, I don't necessarily need another person to
belay me. This is important because I don't program my
climbing, when I feel, I just go!
When I climb with the rope I can't clear my mind, you know,
you need to clip, you are bound to the rope, it's not the
same for me.
you also sportclimb?
even if I'm actually bolting from the bottom a new multypich route, not
far from where I live.
I like it, but I climb with the rope only when I'm tired of bouldering.
After climbing a hard project, I usually need nearly one month to
recover! I can't climb hard continuously! Either my body or my mind
need a rest, with ... parties, some time spent with my girlfriend and
Is there any particular bouldering spot where you would like to go, and where you have not been
Hmmm, there are several spots… I think that you can enjoy climbing
whenever, it is interesting anywhere.
I also think that a very important aspect is the people you climb with, not only the
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