|Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in Rocklands - South Africa|
|Lukasz Dudek climbs Martin Krpan 9a|
|Bogdan Rokosz climbs Sprawa Honoru 9a|
|Chris Sharma: Jumbo Love 9b first ascent at Clark Mountain|
|Gabriele Moroni on Nagay, 8c in 4 goes!|
|Tyler Landman euro bouldering tour|
|Richard Simpson is back: Born 4u 8c in Frankenjura|
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05 June 2005 - 22:15:35
Features: Dai Koyamada’s Wheel of Life
07 January 2005 - 12:02:50
Features: Climbing in Japan: The way of the weekend warrior
The Way of the Weekend Warrior
Japan offers endless opportunities for foreigners, or gaijin, to make unwitting fools of themselves. Although tourists usually get sufficient slack in the manners department, Topher, for one, seems determined to get it right. Clad in a yukata, a long bathrobe-like floppy-sleeved garment worn as aprés-hot-springs apparel, my photographer is trying hard not to do any unintentional dragnet fishing in his dinner soup with said sleeves while under the mounting influence of hot sake.
01 November 2004 - 18:43:44
Features: Goals in Climbing
Climb-climb-climb...but what for?!?!
For Fun! Sure!!
Adrian Berry wrote an interesting article about "GOALS IN CLIMBING" on PlaneFear.com
"Over the winter, with less actual chance to go climbing, it’s hard to stay motivated to train, especially if your training lacks variety. Goals are focal points in your climbing, and serve to keep you focussed and motivated."
Read the full article here!
28 September 2004 - 10:34:32
Features: Climbing beyond our Western Cultural bias
01 July 2004 - 18:04:49
Features: L’autre Côté de Fred Rouhling
L’autre Côté de Fred Rouhling
Cheat! Liar! Over the years, many climbers have become objects of derision because the claims they made did not pass muster. Once the negative publicity gets rolling, it seems there’s no stopping it. In the sport-climbing world, perhaps no man has received as much bad press as Fred Rouhling, a Frenchman who made the news in the mid-1990s.
17 June 2004 - 15:46:25
Features: Is 9a real?
27 April 2004 - 09:36:27
Features: The magic grade: E5
Do you wanna know more about trad climbing?!?!
"Forget 8a, 5.14a, Australia 30, Font 8a, V10 or B10, E5 is it. To have climbed E5 is an exceptional achievement. Not only that, but E5's are big routes. Big on history and big on reputation. When climbing started to become popular most of the easier extremes had already been done, but E5's were those glaring last great problems, named and documented well before the first ascent. New magazines were there to spread the word and inspire us with full-page shots of extreme action the moment these lines were conquered. "
Read the full article of Steve McCLure on PlanetFear.com!
18 February 2004 - 23:31:32
Features: Rumney: Fly Boys
Not to be dissing Dave Graham, but one of his hardest Rumney routes, The Fly (9a or 5.14d), received an embarrassing amount of attention this fall. First, Tony Lamiche of France, traveling with the Petzl Rock Trip tour, made the third ascent of the crimpy testpiece, beaming his Beta to the world via digital video (still viewable on the Petzl website).
02 January 2004 - 09:00:00
Features: The crag of the future: ''The Fortress of Solitude''
The crag of the future: ''The Fortress of Solitude''
No matter if it’s for a hot date, for a meeting, for your girlfriend’s period, or, in my case, in the season — “late” is never good. Laboring halfway up a barren Colorado hillside in convulsive 100-degree July heat, I beg for mercy — and for shade. I follow closely behind Tommy Caldwell, his wife Beth, and Adam Stack, and imagine this hike in the cool temps of winter. There will be no mercy, however, not on this hike nor on the crag that awaits. We’re on our way to the Fortress of Solitude, a limestone crag not far from the famed Rifle Mountain Park in western Colorado. It is a little-visited crag cloaked in an odd mix of fame and obscurity. It is known for being home to North America’s hardest sport routes, Caldwell’s Kryptonite and Flex Luthor — and for little else.
02 December 2003 - 08:00:00
Features: Dave Graham: who is this guy?
Article by rockclimbing.com
Born in 1981 in Maine, one of the flattest states in the U.S.A., Dave Graham started to climb in 1997 with a friend from his skiing team. “He climbed already and asked me if I wanted to go to the local wall. For two weeks I went back there every day. I immediately realised that I really liked climbing.
02 November 2003 - 08:00:00
Features: Joe Kinder : Let it Glide - Rumney's hardest yet?
It was like trying to sell three Kirbys in a week,” says Joe Kinder of the effort required for his new route at Rumney, New Hampshire, his hardest to redpoint date, Livin’ Astroglide.“Kirbys” would be vacuum cleaners. After earning an art degree, Kinder, hypnotized by the possibility of making big coin fast, began selling Kirby vacuum cleaners.
02 October 2003 - 07:00:00
Features: Steve McClure storms Rainshadow
If British limestone is better known for difficulty than beauty, position, or overall fine grimping, the exception is Malham Cove. If Malham were in France, the Brits often say, it would be one of that country’s best crags. The huge, 300-foot-tall amphitheatre of black-streaked limestone combines wild exposure, fantastic rock, and beautiful Yorkshire scenery.
26 September 2003 - 20:25:32
Features: Didier Berthod & «Greenspit»
by Moix Frédéric (bouldering.info)
"Greenspit" is a crack traversing a huge overhang. The crack is perfectly horizontal over 12 meters and that's the reason why the climbing in it is similar to a roof climbing. There's only one bolt as a belay. The climbing is about fingers, hands, fists and feet jams along the whole roof. Pain is omnipresent.
19 September 2003 - 08:00:00
Features: Ramón Julián fires La Rambla Direct
Statement of youth Ramón Julián fires La Rambla Direct Look out Realization. Scoot over Flex Luthor. There's a new all-natural 5.15a on the scene-- La Rambla Direct, an extension to Alex Huber's 5.14c benchmark route at Siurana, Spain, that makes for a 17-bolt, 135-foot pitch. For over a decade the 20-foot extension has withstood attempts by top European sport climbers. In the end it was the diminutive Ramón Julián-- and not his more famous countrymen Dani Andrada or Iker Pou-- who scored the first ascent.
12 September 2003 - 08:00:00
Features: Chris Sharma’s revealing journal: The beginner’s mind
Who is Chris Sharma? Who is he, really? From the craggers of the Grampians to the boulderers of Bishop to the alpinists of Chamonix, climbers the world over know Sharma as one of the greatest rock climbers ever, the icon for his climbing generation, his name forever linked to perhaps the two most famous rock climbs of the past decade: The Mandala and Realization.