We got in touch with Dai Koyamada just after his 7th ascent of Action Directe in order to have the first insights on his performance straight from the protagonists!
Dai Koyamada on Action DirecteInterview by
Daniel Vecchiato Hey Dai, first of all congratulations for your performance!
How was it?!? It was so hard. The line of the route is wonderful.
What did you think when you clipped the chain? I was relieved and happy.
Why Action Direct? Because it was the "destination" of my climbing life since I began to climb.
Did you do any particular training for Action Direct? I did quite a bit of campussing and I did exercises for monos.
I began to concentrate on bouldering after trying Action Directe in 2002: I thought I needed more maximum power to succed in this route.
In fact, I have not climbed any route for 2 years.
Was it difficult for a short climber? I'm 165cm tall,but I don't think it makes a big difference if you are tall or short. But I think that it would have been easier if my fingers would have been thinner, because I had to hold 2 pockets of Action Direct only with one finger, where, usually, a climber with thin fingers could have placed two.
Did you need a specific sequence? I used a completely different sequence than Iker Pou or Richard Simpson. Maybe I used a mixture of all existing sequences.
Do you think this is the most significant hard route you have done? Definitely! It is the hardest route I've ever done. I have done three 9a's and 16 8c+'s and I think that Action Directe is the hardest one of all these.
Cheers Dai!
...and keep surprising us! Action Direct ascents: - Wolfgang Gullich (1991)
- Alexander Adler (1995)
- Iker Pou (2000)
- Dave Graham (2001)
- Christian Bindhammer (2003)
-
Richard Simpson (13/10/2005) -
Dai Koyamada (15/10/2005) More on Dai Koyamada: Dai Koyamada repeats Action Directe!! Dai Koyamada's video: FORTE Dai Koyamada’s Wheel of Life 6th 8C boulder for Day Koyamada Dai Koyamada's European trip report Dai Koyamada repeats Dreamtime! Koyamada suggest an 8C+ for a 60 moves problem! Dai Koyamada: another 8C! Dai Koyamada & Tokio Muroi hard bouldering action Dai Koayamada website:
daihold.com Source:
FreakClimbing.com 
