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  • MoonSchool holds by MoonSchool holds
Xtra 19 August 2006 - 15:57:48 Posted by Freak      

Dean Potter free solo on Separate Reality (5.11d/7a) and Dog's Roof (5.12b/7b)

This is the third free solo ascent of Separate Reality and the first of Dog's Roof to date!

Dean Potter
Dean Potter at the base of Yosemite's
El Capitan, June 17, 2002
ph: Andy Anderson

More news about Dean Potter:
» Dean Potter free solo on Delicate Arch

An article about Dean Potter
from outside Magazine:

» Climbing at the Speed of Soul

Climbing.de reports:
An incredible feeling of joy melts all the tension and I suddenly have an impression that it was not a game of gambling with my life; it was not subjectively dangerous. I sit in the sun on the flat summit plateau - the 'other reality' is now part of the past. It is the thought of death that teaches us to value life" - that's how Güllich described his feelings just after the ascent in German magazine "Bergsteiger".

In 2005 the second free solo was done by Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak (who took famous pictures of Güllich's first ascent). Dean's is the third ropeless ascent while his solo of Dog's Roof, Ray Jardine's route from the late 70's, is the first in the history.

Dean Potter joined a small group of Valley free solo legends 6 years ago, when he soloed Astroman 5.11c on Washington Column, Blind Faith 5.11d and The Regular North Face on The Rostrum. With some speed records and enchainments he's also one of the big players of speed climbing.

Potter proved it once more on 12 July, when he teamed up with two other speed freaks, Ammon McNeely (probably the best Yosemite speed climber at the moment) and Ivo Ninov, to set a new speed record of Reticent Wall A5 5.7. The trio climbed the 21-pitch, incredibly sustained (majority of the pitches are graded A3+ or harder) El Capitan route in 34 hours and 58 minutes. The crux pitch was made in the night and the team finished route on 14th of July just after midnight.

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